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On distripool, we provide you with numerous swimming pool kits made from polystyrene. Discover the specificities of this material, widely used for the construction of swimming pools and houses. Why buy a polystyrene kit swimming pool? Polystyrene has many advantages. This material is quick to install: you will therefore be able to quickly enjoy your kit swimming pool. But you should know that it is also a very powerful insulator. This will make it easier for the water in your pool to maintain a constant temperature, which will be pleasant if you want to swim at the end of the day.
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On Distripool, we offer polystyrene kit swimming pools in many shapes and sizes. If you do not know which model to choose, the easiest way is to contact one of our advisors: you will then be sure not to make a mistake and to benefit from a swimming pool perfectly suited to your needs. To contact us, simply call 04 11 93 04 06: a Distripool advisor will take your call, all you have to do is explain your project and your desires.
The purchase of a polystyrene swimming pool kit interests you, but you would like to know how much will this cost you? Here is an idea of the cost in the lines that follow....
It will obviously depend on the shape of the swimming pool, the dimensions, the type of filtration as well as the quality of the coating. For a swimming pool in high density block. At Distripool, we sell complete kits: structure, filtration, liner sealing... The price is between 2900 and 6500 .
To this you must add other items such as: earthworks, concrete slab, reinforcement and coping.
Here is a table which will allow you to calculate your budget for your swimming pool in terms of concrete and reinforcement:
This video was made with a filtration system in the staircase
You have just purchased a polystyrene swimming pool kit which is simple and pleasant to use. Take your time and follow our explanations carefully.
The structure of your pool must be placed on stabilized soil. Avoid any installation on backfilled soil less than 10 years old. Also inquire at your town hall about the administrative provisions.
A: location:
After having chosen the location of your swimming pool, position the 4 corners (with 4 wooden stakes or iron) of the interior dimensions by carefully checking the diagonals of the rectangle.
Also locate your staircase if it is outside the rectangular structure: the concrete slab will be made including the dimensions of the base of the staircase.
Then determine the finished height of the basin which will be level 0. (see diagram)
Bottom of the earthwork (10 to 15 cm)
A stoning : approximately 10 to 15 cm thick, made up of rounded pebbles or fragments of crushed pebbles, balsat, or even so-called “pavers” gravel. The purpose of the stonework is to equalize and homogenize the support surface of the raft creating a draining surface.
An anti-contaminant geotextile: when the bottom of the excavation is too clayey or peaty, can cover the soil and precede the installation of the stonework. It is generally made of a thin flexible membrane, most often non-woven like the permeable TERGAL fiber, or even a plastic film. We understand that this film constitutes, on the one hand, a clean working base and, on the other hand, it is anti-contaminating by the fact that it prevents the rise of clay in the stonework.
For a block swimming pool, it is necessary to offset the interior dimensions by 50 cm to find the exterior structure dimensions. To this must be added a working area of 25 cm (wall not affected by the passage of the pipes) and 50 cm for the walls receiving the parts to be sealed. It is therefore strongly recommended to make a concrete slab that covers this area.
B: The route of the excavation:
After having traced the earthworks area with plaster, it is imperative to use stakes to align the length and an exact dimension of the swimming pool in order to reposition the 4 angles at the bottom of the earthworks. See diagram.
C: excavation:
From level 0, you will need to add 12 cm to the height of the hole. It will therefore be necessary to dig to 1.62 m for a height of 1.50 m. Remember to also include finishing coverings (terraces, etc.). Before starting work, remember to evacuate the volume of earth extracted. Remember to keep a few m3 for later backfilling.
The bottom of the hole must be LEVEL over the entire surface.
When the earthworks are finished and you have cleaned and leveled, if necessary crushed gravel 10/14 (especially not earth); re-establish the 4 angles (reinforcement bar) using the alignment adjustments made while always checking the diagonals.
Case of damp soils: You must make a decompression well. (contact us to find out more)
D: The bottom drain:
Before positioning the welded mesh, place the bottom drain. It is connected to its pipe (direct bonding or connection + Teflon + bonding depending on the model). Be careful to protect the upper part with the holes with orange adhesive tape after stuffing the drain with paper to prevent the tape from sinking. The joint surface must be flush with the finished level of the slab. Make sure that the slab is flat around the bottom drain. We recommend that this as well as the pipe be run into the slab. Some prefer to use the lower connection so that the pipe is under the slab....
Once the base is finished and dry, position the first block row, aligning them perfectly.The arrow indicated on the top of the blocks is on the exterior side of the pool Check the levels and plumbs, having taken care to cut the 4 corner stakes flush with the slab .
First align the 4 corners with whole blocks and always put whole blocks at the corners.
Position horizontally inside the block (and then in each row) a 10 mm diameter concrete iron around the entire perimeter. Overlap the junctions of 2 horizontal concrete bars by 50 cm and bind them with 2 iron ties. For the last row, put 2 irons of diameter 10 mm.
Position the 2nd row of blocks, taking care to cross them (overlap of 25 cm), which will ensure better stability of the pool before pouring concrete. If you need to cut a block (using a wood saw), carefully follow the vertical line and cut the block in the middle of the spacer.
Continue with a new row of blocks, horizontal irons up to the height of your pool. To properly fit the blocks on top of each other, after having adjusted the male and female nipples well, tap the spacers with the palm of your hand.
The vertical irons must be cut at least 3 cm below the top level of the 1st row.
There is an upper and lower cap to place on the blocks at the ends of the structure.
Before pouring the concrete, you must put in place your parts to be sealed if you have opted for traditional filtration.
1: The leveling:
It must be perfectly level because it will receive the rails hanging and your copings. It is therefore necessary to remove the crampons which are used to fit the blocks with a cutter.
Type of concrete to use: C25/30 dosed at 350 Kg/m3, class S3 maximum /C25/30 XC1-XC2 D22 S3 CI 0.40.Do not use liquid concrete
It isimperativeto start with the 4 corners to a height of 1 m | ||1633MAXIMUM then reload on the perimeter by rotating in 2 rows maximum.
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It is recommended to pour the concrete gradually. It is also recommended to float the level surface to facilitate the installation of the rails and copings.
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